Low gauge, high quality
We talk a lot about how our socks are made on low gauge knitting machines, but what does this actually mean, and why does it matter? Read on to understand what a low gauge knit is, and the benefits of wearing socks created from it.
What does low gauge mean
For knitwear, gauge indicates the number of stitches per inch. The higher the gauge number, the more stitches per inch, and the denser the knit. Conversely, the lower the gauge, the less stitches per inch and the looser (more breathable) the knit.
As a higher gauge uses more stitches per inch, this also means the yarn that is used needs to be thinner, resulting in a thinner fabric. Thicker yarns require less stitches per inch, and so thicker fabrics generally have a lower gauge. For instance, your thick wool jumper is likely a lower gauge knit than your cotton T-shirt (yes, your T-shirts are knit!).
What are the benefits of low gauge socks
So now that we know a little bit about what low gauge means, let’s have a look at why it matters. There are advantages to using a lower gauge knit in socks that you don’t get with thinner, denser socks. In short, low gauge socks are more breathable, more comfortable and more durable.
1. Breathable
A low gauge knit fabric is slightly looser (i.e. less dense), which means that in a thinner fabric it creates a very breathable garment, as it allows the air to flow. In a sock, this keeps your feet feeling fresh and dry, and it is what makes our thinner low gauge socks so breathable and comfortable, especially in warmer weather.
2. Insulation
In a thicker fabric on the other hand, a low gauge creates excellent insulation. The looser knit creates air pockets in the fabric, which create an insulating air barrier that holds the body’s warmth and keeps the cold air out. In socks, it means they keep your feet warm in cold weather.
3. Natural comfort
A lower gauge fabric has natural stretch, which makes it perfect for socks, as it allows the fabric to wrap around the foot naturally. It also means that less of the fragile (synthetic) elastane is needed, compared to socks made in mass production which lack this natural stretch and thus require a lot of added elastics.
4. Cushioning
As mentioned above, a low gauge knit contains a decent amount of air, which makes it so soft and springy. This gives our socks some extra cushioning, which can help to reduce foot fatigue. It is the case for all our socks, including the regular thickness ones, but it gets more pronounced the thicker the fabric gets.
"Made with thicker thread in an airy knit, low gauge socks are more breathable, more comfortable and more durable."
If they’re so good, why doesn’t everyone make low gauge knit socks?
Simply put, because they can’t (anymore). Quite often both the technology and the knowledge to create these products have been lost. Over time, most makers have moved away from traditional knitting methods in favour of faster, cheaper and higher efficiency ways of manufacturing, in the process shedding their machines, skilled makers and expertise.
This means that if they wanted to return to these methods, they wouldn’t be able to. The cost of the machines might be prohibitive, if they can be obtained at all, the skilled workers to operate them are no longer available and the knowledge has been lost.
As a result of all these factors, high quality low gauge socks have become rare both in Japan and worldwide. The low gauge machines that our socks are made on are exceedingly rare, and the expertise required to operate them and create high quality socks has been passed on from generation to generation. We are lucky that there are dedicated factories keeping this craft alive, and hopefully we can contribute by continuing in the tradition of making low gauge socks.
